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Fitting Guides - Ceramic Sink

A guide to fitting a ceramic sink

As the sink is often the focal point of the kitchen, fitting a new kitchen sink can give a revitalising lift to a tired room. There is such a wide range of sinks available there is a sink to seamlessly match any style of kitchen from an ultra modern minimalist undermounted sink to a more traditional ceramic Belfast sink.

If a traditional ceramic sink is chosen, there are a few key steps to follow in order to smoothly fit the ceramic sink within the work surface. Fitting a ceramic sink can be tricky however if this easy guide is followed then the fitting should run smoothly and without problems.

Before installing a Ceramic Sink

It is important to check whether the current plumbing and pipes are long enough to reach the desired location for the new sink. It may be necessary to extend the hot and cold water pipes as well as the waste system in order for the new sink to reach the new pipes before installation of the new sink is started. If the ceramic sink does not have tap holes, these will need to be cut out before the sink is fitted.

Punching Tap Holes in a Ceramic Sink

It is important to always punch or drill the tap holes from the top of the ceramic sink. Measure to find the centre of the tap hole required and cover the area in masking tape. Using a centre punch, crack the glaze in the centre of the required hole in the ceramic sink. Using a number eight masonry drill, carefully drill a small pilot hole from the top. Only drill one small hole as this can then be enlarged to the required size carefully using a hammer with the centre punch.

Fitting a Ceramic Sink

The first thing to do when fitting a new ceramic sink into a work surface is to use the template supplied to measure the area and line up the sink so that it falls an equal distance from the front and back of the work surface. It is also important to consider the depth of the basin. Make sure there is enough room under the work surface to accommodate the depth of the ceramic sink.
Consider the required side for the drainer and ensure that this is reversed when the outline is drawn. This will ensure the drainer is on the desired side when the sink and work surface are turned the right way up.
Once the placement of the ceramic sink is set, trace an outline of the template onto the work surface. A good way to do this if the work surface won't mark is to mark out the outline in masking tape and draw on this.
Remove the template and using a ruler measure the overlap distance all the way around the outline for the ceramic sink to rest on the work surface. The manufacturer should have provided this measurement.
Use a 12mm gauge flat bit to drill 4 holes in the corners of the ceramic sink, be careful not to drill outside of the inner line.
Using a jigsaw suitable for cutting the work surface material, cut around the centre of the outline. Make sure the work surface is supported to avoid it splitting especially around the edges. Place masking tape on the heel of the jigsaw to prevent scratching the work surface.
Install the tap and sink strainers as this will be much easier to do now than after the sink is fitted.
Create a watertight seal between the sink and the work surface by applying a line of clear silicone or putty around the underneath of the ceramic sink's lip.
Drop the ceramic sink carefully into the hole watching that the putty does not get disturbed or that the work surface does not get damaged.
Tighten the sink to the work surface with small clips even spaced around the underneath of the lip and tighten with screws. As the pressure rises if the putty seeps out from under the lip, wipe any excess away with a clean cloth. Apply a white silicone seal around the edge.
Attach the P-trap and hot and cold taps and connect the strainers to the waste lines. Remove the aerator from the taps and turn the water supply on at the shut off valves to flush the system, after a few minutes reconnect the aerator.